Sidi Bou Said

The Travel Pages visits Sidi Bou Said, a beautiful seaside village near Tunis and Carthage which has long attracted writers and artists and still does so today.

High on a hilltop overlooking the Mediterranean, some 20 kms (12.4 miles) northeast of Tunis, is the beautiful village of Sidi Bou Said. Its winding streets and dazzling whitewashed houses with their bright blue shutters and elaborately patterned doors are a magnet to visitors, but this is one of those places that simply must be seen, no matter how crowded the streets.

Getting to Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is fairly easy to reach from Tunis, by taxi or TGM train, although from the station it is a 15-minute uphill walk to the old part of Sidi Bou Said. Taxis are more convenient, and not too expensive. There are always plenty of taxis coming and going and you’ll have no trouble finding one to take you back into Tunis.

Arriving in Sidi Bou Said

On first arrival, it is hard to know what the fuss is about. Cars and coaches all cram into a car park, as the cobbled streets of the village are closed to traffic apart from the occasional worker or resident. On and around the car park, and along the first main street, are countless souvenir stalls offering a colourful variety of ceramics, leather goods, carpets, perfumes and paintings.

Artists and Writers in Sidi Bou Said

The paintings in particular are of a high standard, as Sidi Bou Said’s rare beauty has attracted artists for many years. In the early 20th century French artists Paul Klee and Louis Moillet lived here, and the white cube houses played their part in influencing the Cubist Movement.

Artists still live here, and some of the shops do have good displays of original work, with the occasional exhibition. Writers have visited too, mostly from France, including Colette and Simone de Beauvoir. Andre Gide also once had a home in the town.

Café des Nattes

Partway along the main cobbled street, the Café des Nattes is the place to hang out, or simply take a look inside for its old-world atmosphere. A much better place, though, is further along on the right, where the Café Sisi Chabaane down some steps is the best place to sip a mint tea and enjoy the sea views. It’s also known as the Café des Delices.

Dar Ennejma Ezzahra

Near the car park is Dar Ennejma Ezzahra, a palace built in the early 20th century by the wealthy French Baron d’Erlanger, who settled here to indulge his passion for music and art. He is also the man responsible for starting the distinctive blue and white colour scheme throughout Sidi Bou Said.

Appropriately it now houses the Centre for Arab and Mediterranean Music, which has a good collection of musical instruments, and occasional concerts are held here, but the house and gardens are themselves interesting and attractive to wander round. There’s also an artist’s studio, and works of art on display. Highly recommended.

Dar el Annabi

So too is the house and courtyards of the Dar el Annabi, which houses a Heritage Museum. This is a traditional mansion with 55 labyrinthine rooms, historic tableaux, and an Andalucian courtyard, off which a glass of mint tea is served by family members. A fascinating look behind one of those blue-painted doors that are so typical of Tunisia, and especially in Sidi Bou Said.

Staying in Sidi Bou Said

We recommend at least a night or two in Sidi Bou Said, which changes when the day visitors have left. It still attracts plenty of people in the evening, when the cafes and restaurants are still lively. Accommodation choices include the 5-star Villa Bleue, but there are plenty of less expensive options too.